ABSTRACT
The study focused on development of suits for women with figure flaws in Colleges of Education, in Anambra State, Nigeria. Specifically, the study identified different figure flaws for different women; measured women with figure flaws; established average body measurement for women with figure flaws; constructed suit for women with figure flaws; and determined the appropriateness of suit in terms of fit, acceptability and aesthetics as assessed by judges and models in small, medium and large sizes. Five research questions guided the study. Research and Development (R&D) methods were adopted. The population of this study was 612. The population comprised 213 garment makers and 399 female academic staff in Nwafor Orizu College of Education, Nsugbe, and Federal College of Education (Technical), Umunze. The sample size of the study was 172. The study employed purposive sampling technique. Purposive sampling technique was used to select five judges from 159 women from the two colleges of education in Anambra State who are experts in clothing and textile who in turn selected 21 women (judgmentally) with figure flaw that were measured. Researcher selected 13 garment makers who were willing to participate in the study. Three instruments: a questionnaire, a measurement chart, and assessment chart for judges developed by the researchers were face-validated by 3 experts and were used for data collection. Average body measurements were established by measuring 21 women with obvious figure flaws. Average body measurements obtained were used to develop suits for women with figure flaws in three size categories of small, medium and large. Lecturers knowledgeable in clothing and textiles and the models rated the constructed suits under camera, using assessment criteria charts for clothing fit, aesthetics and acceptability. Data derived from the study were analysed using percentages and means to answer the research questions while Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) statistics was used for testing the null hypotheses at 0.05 level of significance. Major findings from the study include the identification of figure flaws, suit preferences of women, average body measurements of women with figure flaws, and design specifications required for the construction of suits. Three patterns segregated according to relevant body parts were produced. The models were satisfied with the fit conditions of the prototype suits although alterations or modifications were made in a few areas to fully submerge the figure flaws. Based on the assessment of the judges, it was concluded that the developed suits successfully addressed the figure flaws of women. The results of hypotheses showed there was significance difference in the mean ratings of Judges and models on the fit, acceptability and aesthetics of the developed suit for different sizes of women with figure flaws. The study recommended that the developed suits could be used as prototype for mass production of suits for women with figure flaws in Colleges of Education in Anambra State.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Title Page i
Declaration ii
Certification iii
Dedication iv
Acknowledgements v
Table of Contents vi
List of Tables viii
List of Figures ix
Abstract x
CHAPTER1:
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of the Study 1
1.2 Statement of the Problems 5
1.3 Objectives of the Study 6
1.4 Significance of the Study 6
1.5 Scope of the Study 8
1.6 Research Questions 8
1.7 Hypotheses 9
CHAPTER
2: LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Conceptual framework 11
2.1.1 Body figure/features 11
2.1.2 Women’s body features 13
2.1.3 Women’s suit and body types 19
2.1.4 Development 22
2.1.5 Pattern development and measurement 23
2.1.6 Suit production 37
2.2 Theoretical framework 53
2.2.1 Body image theory 53
2.2.2 Protection theory 54
2.3 Review of related empirical studies 55
2.4 Summary of literature review 58
CHAPTER
3: MATERIALS AND METHOD
3.1 Design of the study 60
3.2 Area of the study 62
3.3 Population for the study 63
3.4 Sample and sampling techniques 64
3.5 Instrument for data collection 65
3.6 Validation of the instruments 65
3.7 Reliability of the instrument 67
3.8 Method of data collection 68
3.9 Method of data analysis 70
CHAPTER
4: PRESENTATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA
4.1 Results presentation 71
4.2 Testing of hypotheses 78
4.2.1 Hypothesis one 78
4.2.2 Hypothesis two 79
4.2.3 Hypothesis three 80
4.3 Summary of major findings from the study 81
4.4 Discussion of the findings 83
CHAPTER
5: SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
5.1 Summary of the study 87
5.2 Conclusion 88
5.3 Recommendations 90
REFERENCES
APPENDICES
LIST OF TABLES
2.1: Women
body dimensions according to ISO 8559/1989 15
2.2: Women’s
standard body measurements in centimetres & inches
(height 170cm-178cm
(5ft 7in-5ft 10in) 28
2.3: Women
measurement charts 32
3.1:
Distribution of the population based on the college 63
3.2:
Description of the sampling cluster
64
4.1:
Perception of respondents on the different figure flaws for
different women 71
4.2a: Average body measurements of small-sized
women with figure
flaws
(N=7) 73
4.2b: Average body measurement of medium-sized
women with figure
flaws
(N=7) 74
4.2c: Average
body measurement of large-sized women with figure flaws (N=7) 75
4.3: Distribution of respondents by preferred
choice of suit pattern for
women
with figure flaws 76
4.4a: Appropriateness of the developed suit in
terms of fit, acceptability
and
aesthetics as assessed by judges and experts in small size (88-92) 76
4.4b: Appropriateness of the developed suit in
terms of fit, acceptability
and
aesthetics as assessed by judges and experts in medium size (96-100) 77
4.4c: Appropriateness of the developed suit in
terms of fit, acceptability
and
aesthetics as assessed by judges and experts in large size (104-108) 77
4.5: Test of significance of judges’ and
models’ ratings on the fit of the
developed
suit for different sizes of women with figure flaws 78
4.6: Test of significance of judges’ and
models’ ratings on the
acceptability
of the developed suit for different sizes of women
with
figure flaws 79
4.7: Test of significance of judges’ and
models’ ratings on the
aesthetics
of the developed suit for different sizes of women
with
figure flaws 80
LIST OF
FIGURES
1: Big
breast 21
2: Italian
Suit 22
3: Heavy
woman 38
4: Busty Woman 39
5: Thin Woman 39
6: Basic block 43
7: Patterns 45
8: Sleeve 47
9: Waist
dart 48
10: Bust
dart 49
11: Bodice 50
12: Trouser
block 51
13:
Single breasted 51
14: Coat 52
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1 BACKGROUND OF THE STUDY
Women’s
body features, especially the body type and the drop value constitute the major
problem in designing women’s wears. The drop value relates to the difference
between the burst and the hip circumference. Fan, Yu and Hunter (2004) reported
that in the United Kingdom, the British Standard Institute (BSI) identified
three body types, namely, short (166cm), regular (174cm) and tall (182cm), and
each has two figure types: mature (drop=14cm) and athletic (drop=17cm).
Other
forms of description of women’s figure types abound. For instance, Kwong (2004)
grouped women’s figures into nine categories, namely: (1) Stooping, (2) Short
neck square, (3) Normal, (4) Long neck, sloping, (5) Head forward, (6) Erect,
(7) Corpulent (8) tall and thin and (9) Large shoulders. Spenser (1998)
classified body figures into three categories of shape, namely: Shape 1 -
Straight Figure for people with straight/wide rib-cage, little/no waistline,
and flat hips/thighs; Shape 2 - Tapered Figure for women with features such as
short rib-cage, visible waistline, and rounded hips/thighs; and Shape 3 -
Curved Figure for people who have long and/or tapered rib-cage (an extreme case
being a hunch), obvious waistline, and flared hips and thighs.
In
a similar manner, Olaitan and Mbah (1991) categorized figure types into four
categories that are equally based on height and shape of body. These are Short
and plump, Short and slender, Tall and slender and Tall and plump. Thus,
individuals can be described as being Short and fat, Top heavy, Tall and thin,
and Bottom heavy. However, Stacey (2010) insists that regardless of size, there
are three basic body types: Heavy, Muscular, and Slim. Heavy refers to those
women who are overweight, particularly those who are barrel-chested or have a
large belly. The Muscular are women with a moderate physique and have no
problems with clothing fit. The slim women are thin or slender and
ready-to-wear garments are invariably oversize on them. Spenser (1998) stated
that it is the body shape rather than size that is the crucial in deciding the
figure and clothes that may be the most attractive.
Consequently,
the figure types of adults are grouped according to height and proportion. Fan,
Yu and Hunter (2004) also agreed that studying an individual’s figure type and
figure faults helps one to choose suitable and flattering clothing style. Some
women have natural figure faults while others develop figure faults because of
child birth and consequent middle-age spread or weight gain especially around
the waist (Anikweze, 2003). However, women are generally sensitive to the
principle of attraction and so they are selective in attitude to choice of
clothes to match their figure to facilitate fashionable appearance (Marshall et
al, 2000; Anikweze, 2003).
Figure
flaws are body features that are not balanced or regularly arranged either on
opposite sides of a line or around a central point. Such body constitution
creates disproportionate appearance in the person’s figure, such as pot belly,
large arms, heavy waist, bow legs and other abnormalities. These figure flaws can cause difficulties in
donning and doffing of garments except where appropriate adjustments have been
made deliberately to address the figure flaws (Igbo, 2004). In contrast, women
with regular features refer to proportionate figure type in women which is
characterized by an inverted symmetrical triangle (Barnes, 2008). This regular
feature implies women with a height of between 172 cm and drop value between 13
cm and15 cm. In Nigeria and particularly in Anambra state, garment makers rely
on individual body measurements of consumers for garment production and,
therefore, there is no room for standardization of garments for commercial
production unlike their counterparts in the United Kingdom.
Clothes
worn by individuals have a way of influencing their appearance and so, serve as
the ‘silent language’ which communicates through visual and nonverbal symbols
(Weber, 1990). This symbolic representation will obviously become exaggerated
in women with figure flaws thereby creating an unintended departure from the
significance of wearing clothes. The significance of clothes among the peoples
of the world has been theorized by Jones in Igbo, (2004). According to Jones,
reasons for wearing clothes, include protection, modesty, social status,
attraction, occupational identity and traditional identity. Igbo (2004)
discussed theories of clothing under four major headings, specifically: Modesty
theory, Immodesty theory, Protection theory and Adornment or Decoration theory.
Gurel in Visus (2014) also identified other theories such as Defense theory
(that is protection), Body Image theory, Conformity and Individuality theory,
Fashion leadership or Adornment theory, Social status theory, Role theory and
Symbolism theory. However, Horn and Gurel in Visus (2014) had argued that the symbolic
message of clothing may not always be the intended message since the symbolic
message may be incorrectly interpreted. It becomes a problem therefore, when an
unintended message is conveyed by an appearance that is characterized by figure
flaws or abnormal figures of the body. Psychologically, women with figure flaws
may feel withdrawn from participating in certain physical activities.
Socially,
it is not uncommon for stereotyped fat men and diminutive women, to face
discriminatory practices in considerations for employment, recruitment into the
armed forces, and even in social relationships. Such a disproportionate body features
could arouse feelings of inferiority complex which isolate them from appearance
at occasions (Rawal inVisus (2014). In this regard, properly designed garments
can absorb the embarrassment associated with figure flaws. Some figure flaws
may be natural or due to heredity while some are as a result of accident or disease.
For instance, in many women, as posited by Kennard (2006), lack of dietary
control and lack of exercise often result in obesity that is manifested in
abnormally plump and heavy body proportions. This is an obvious disadvantage to
longevity given that Bray in Igbo, (2004) had argued that overweight induces
onset of maturity and few women would admire having the appearance of an over
60 when in actual fact the person is under 40.
Women
are generally sensitive to the principle of attraction, and so, they are
selective in their attitude to choice of suits to match their figures, to
facilitate fashionable and, even, corporate appearance (Ehumadu 2010). Suit is
a costume to be worn for a special purpose or under particular conditions.
Suits worn by individuals, especially prorated women with figure flaws, have a
way of influencing their appearance, and so serve as a silent language which
communicates through visual, non-verbal symbols. This symbolic representation
exaggerates women’s figure flaws and departs from the significance of wearing
clothes. Thus suit makers need to produce some customized form of suits to suit
the body types of these women with body flaws.
Suit
makers in Nigeria may find it difficult to produce for individuals with disproportionate
figure types. This is probably because of technicalities involved in the
production of garments for women with figures flaws. Worse still, it is likely
that they may lack access to free-size, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear
globally accepted standardized patterns needed to trace and aid their mastery,
accuracy in measurements and production of such suits, especially in this time
of trendy changes in dress making. As a result, the development of suits,
especially for women with figure flaws in the Colleges of Education in Anambra
State constitutes a huge problem. College of education is one of the tripods of
tertiary education in Nigeria. It is a college established for teacher training
and awards the Nigeria Certificate in Education (NCE). There are two such
colleges in Anambra State namely, Federal College of Education (Technical),
Umunze and Nwafor Orizu College of Education Nsugbe owned by the Federal and
State governments respectively. There are … and … women in the two colleges of
education respectively. A good number of women among the groups is with figure
flaws.
Women
in colleges of education with body flaws need to appear corporate before their
students and peers. As the saying goes, it is the way you dress that you will
be addressed; this study sets out to explore the development of suits for women
with figure flaws in colleges of education in Anambra State.
1.2 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM
The
dress worn by somebody conveys a certain message to on-lookers. It is not quite
certain the type of symbolic message suit worn by women with abnormal body
features would convey to observers by an appearance that is occasioned by
figure flaws. It is only specially designed suit that can absorb the
embarrassing absurdities that are associated with the shapes of women with
figure flaws. Examples are women with pot belly, busty, heavy waist, bow legs
and other indicators of lack of symmetry in body shape.
It
is the wish of every woman to look good and admirable. Women in colleges of
education in Anambra State, especially are public figures who appear in public,
during lectures and interaction with peers.
For those of them with figure flaws, their self-perception and
self-esteem and by extension their social lives are affected. This is because
they consider themselves unfit and relatively inferior, thus undermining their
capabilities. Society also tends to look down on women with figure flaws.
Unmarried women with figure flaws have difficulty finding suitable suitors.
The
saving grace however, is that while the flaw may be difficult to restore
naturally, it can be concealed using an appropriate art of clothing. The problem
of this study is how to develop suit for women with figure flaws in colleges of
education in Anambra State.
1.3 OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY
The
main objective of the study was to develop and produce suit pattern for women
with figure flaws in Colleges of Education in Anambra State. Specifically, the
study sought to:
1. Identify
different figure flaws for different women.
2. Identified
suit preference for women with figure flaws.
3. Establish
average body measurement for women with figure flaws.
4. Construct
classic suit for women with figure flaws.
5. Determine
the appropriateness of suit in terms of fit, acceptability and aesthetics as
assessed by judges and models in small, medium and large sizes.
1.4 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY
The
findings of the study would be beneficial to the following individuals and
groups in various ways: garment consumers, the garment industries, and the
government, lecturers in clothing and textiles, fashion designers, garment merchandisers,
and most especially, academic women with figure flaws who will be the direct
beneficiaries of designed patterns for disguising their figure flaws.
To
the Garment consumers the findings of this study if available to them, will
enable them determine the appropriateness of suit in terms of fit, comfort, and
acceptability that will match them with available garment in the market before
purchasing. Such will also boost their self-esteem and their confidence.
The
findings of this study if made available to the garment industries through
publicity will provide them with information on the various features at the
process of designing their wears. The study will provide the government
necessary information in terms of resource base for enrichment of the
curriculum and content of clothing and textile education as well as policies
related to conferences, workshops and seminars in advancing the future of
garment industries sustainability with reference to people with figure flaws.
The
findings will benefit lecturers in clothing and textile at various levels of
educational system. It will constitute an important resource material for their
use during instructions. The teaching and learning process in clothing often
relies on normal figures as basis for instructing students, and fails to reckon
with the larger number of people with figure flaws. The implication is that
students learn to develop or to sew garments for normal people and deficient in
production of garment for people with figure flaws. The findings of this study
therefore will provide the lecturers the need to always consider figure flaws
in the teaching and learning process.
Garment
merchandisers will also have varieties of clothe sizes to sell to their varying
customers since they would observe the percentage of people with figure flaws.
Finally, women in colleges of education are role models and the appearance of a
role model is of utmost concern; therefore, those of them with figure flaws need
to appear good before their students whom they stand as model. A garment
produced to provide these women with fit and good appearance is therefore a
matter of necessity.
Finally,
if this study is approved of it corrections, it will be deposited at the school
library and World Wide Web as a reference point for the above mentioned people
or group.
1.5 SCOPE OF THE STUDY
The
study covers female academics staff in the two Colleges of Education – Nwafor Orizu
College of Education, Nsugbe and Federal College of Education (Technical),
Umunze, in Anambra State. It was delimited to identifying different figure
flaws for different women, measurements for women with figure flaws, average
body measurement for women with figure flaws, type of suit pattern for women
with figure flaws, type of suit constructed for women with figure flaws and
appropriateness of suit in terms of fit, acceptability and aesthetics as
assessed by judges in small, medium and large sizes.
1.6 RESEARCH QUESTIONS
The
study sought answers to the following research questions:
1. What
are different figure flaws for different women?
2. What
are the measurements for women with figure flaws?
3. What
is the average body measurement for women with figure flaws?
4. How
appropriate are the developed suit in terms of fit, acceptability and
aesthetics as assessed by judges and models in small, medium and large sizes?
1.7 HYPOTHESES
The following null
hypotheses were formulated:
H01: There is no
significant difference in the mean ratings of judges and models on the fit of the
developed suit for small, medium and large sizes of women with figure flaws.
H02: There is no
significant difference in the mean ratings of judges and models on the
acceptability of the developed suit for small, medium and large sizes of women
with figure flaws.
H03: There is no
significant difference in the mean ratings of judges and models on the
aesthetics of the developed suit for small, medium and large sizes of women
with figure flaws.
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