ABSTRACT
The
curvetous nature of the feminine body makes it intricate to construct
well-fitting garments for women. Consequently, the choice of a technique for
the construction of female garments is critical to making well-fitting female
garments. This study constructed and fit-tested garments (peplum blouses and straight
cut skirts) made from flat pattern and draping techniques for small, medium and
large sized female adults in Edo State. The objectives were to assess the
visual impression of outfits (blouses and skirts) made from flat pattern and
draping techniques, fit-test blouses made from flat pattern and draping
techniques on models, fit-test skirts made from flat pattern and draping
techniques on models, and examine the garment construction details of garments
(blouses and skirts) made from flat-pattern and draping techniques. A 10 – man
panel of judges were recruited to score the assessment sheet comprising of
clothing and textile lecturers in the university of Benin as well as owners of
garment construction centres in Ovia-North East Local Government of Edo State. It
was observed that: (1) there is a significant difference between the fit of
blouses made from flat pattern and draping techniques with the draping
technique having a higher mean rank (93.69); and (2) there is a significant
difference between the fit of skirts made from flat pattern and draping
techniques with the flat pattern having a high mean rank of (89.20). This study
recommends that garment producers in the study area should construct blouses
using the draping technique, while skirts should be constructed by the flat
pattern technique. However, where the
construction details are of importance, the draping technique is preferable for
both skirts and blouses. This study has helped to clarify the contributions of
the two garment construction techniques to the fit of blouses and skirts.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Title Page i
Declaration ii
Certification
iii
Dedication iv
Acknowledgments v
Table of Content vi
List of Tables vii
List of Figures viii
List of Appendices ix
Abstract x
CHAPTER 1 :
INTRODUCTION
1.1
Background
of the Study 1
1.2
Statement
of the Research Problem 4
1.3
Purpose
of the Study 6
1.4
Research
Questions 7
1.5
Hypothesis
of the Study 7
1.6
Significance
of the study 8
1.7
Scope
of the Study 9
CHAPTER 2:
LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1
Preamble 10
2.2
Conceptual Framework 10
2.2.1
Concept of flat pattern 10
2.2.2
Concept of draping 14
2.2.3
Garment fit 16
2.2.4
History of patternmaking 26
2.3
Theoritical Framework 29
2.3.1
Clothing theory 29
2.3.2
Pattern theory 33
2.3.3
Garment fit theory 35
2.4 Review
of Empirical Related Studies 36
2.5
Summary of Literature Review 39
CHAPTER 3 :
METHODOLOGY
3.1 Preamble 40
3.2
Research Design 40
3.3 Area
of the Study 41
3.4 Population
for the study 41
3.5
Sample and Sampling Frame
41
3.6
Sampling and Sampling Technique 42
3.7
Instrument for Data Collection 42
3.8
Material and Methods 43
3.9
Method of Data Analysis 44
3.9.1 Mann-Whitney U test 44
3.9.2 Fit-index 44
CHAPTER 4: RESULT
AND DISSCUSSION
4.1 Preamble 46
4.2 Characteristics
of respondents of the Study 46
4.3 Score sheet Administration
and Return 47
4.4 Results of the Findings from
Judges Score Sheet 48
4.5 Comparision
of Fits of Garment from flat Pattern and Draping Technique on the Models 50
4.5.1 Comparision
of fit of blouses made from flat pattern and draping techniques on models 50
4.5.2 Comparision of fit of skirts made from flat pattern and draping
technique on the models 52
4.8 Comparision of Garment Construction Details
of Garments Made from Pattern Drafting and
Draping technique of the Models 54
CHAPTER 5 : SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND
RECOMMENDATION
5.1 Preamble 58
5.2 Summary
of Findings 58
5.3 Conclusion 60
5.4 Recommendations
61
References
Appendices
LIST OF TABLES
1
Fundamental fitting factors. 24
2
Summary of clothing theories 32
3
Materials and Equipment used for drafting and
draping 44
4
Demographic data of the judges
47
5
Judges
score on the visual impression of the outfit on the models for drafting and
draping techniques 48
6
Judges scores on the fit of blouses made
from drafted pattern and draping technique 50
7
Judges scores on skirts made from drafted
pattern and draping technique 52
8
Judges score construction details for drafted
and draped garments (Blouses and skirts) 54
9
Mann-whitney U test of Hypotheses 56
LIST OF
FIGURES
1
Tailoring matrix 11
2
Garment construction remarks on the
foundation of patternmaking 15
3
Fabric Grain 19
4
Showing evolution of garment from ancient
whole wrap to rectangular cut garments
26
5
Dimensional
units for flat pattern-
28
6
Showing the tailoring matrix with block
pattern and the prevalent approximation
of the body used for drafting 34
7
The Dress stand together with the
tailoring matrix 35
8
Visual impression of Garment from drafted
pattern 50
9
Visual impression of outfit for garment made
from draped pattern 50
10
Basic Bodice Front 74
11
Draped basic front with anchored pins on
the waistline 74
12
Draped basic front checking grainline
alignment 75
13
Draped basic front pinning and draping the
front waist dart. 76
14
Showing draped basic bodice front with
adjustment of the dart at the waistline76
15
Draping the front shoulder dart. 77
16
Draping and aligning the front shoulder
dart. 77
17
Alligning the dart at the shoulder to
match the waist line dart 78
18
Laying fabric for back bodice 78
19
Picking the bodice dart. 79
20
Draping the Waistline. 79
Fastening
the Waistline.a 80
Fastening
the Waistline b 80
21
Picking the Shoulder dart 81
22
Back Bodice Pattern. 83
23
Front Bodice Draft. 85
24
Showing picture of researcher draping the
front bodice pattern 94
25
Showing picture of researcher draping the front
skirt bodice pattern. 94
26
Showing picture of the researcher drafting
pattern for blouses and skirts 94
28 showing picture of judges scoring the fit of
the garment of the models 94
LIST OF APPENDICES
A Assessment Score Sheet 71
B Amdem-Crawforg models for Draping Fabric
(2012) 74
C Igbo and Illoeje’s Models for Drafting 83
D
Universally accepted models Standard for Garment Design fit by the
Association practices committee of Sewing and Design ASDP (2008) 89
E Measurement chart 93
F Picures showing the researcher
drafting and draping 94
G Tailors and fashion designers
association 96
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1 BACKGROUND TO THE STUDY
The feminine figure is a mass of curves of different
shapes from which garments are sewn to fit the body; this requires the ability
of the garment designer to make garments using any method of pattern
techniques. Patterns are pieces of tools carefully structured to make these
garments fit the body shapes irrespective of how irregular the body curves may
be. These patterns are of different types, but they all serve the same purpose
which entails covering the human skeletal body with garment produced from the
various types of pattern. The draping and flat pattern techniques are a few
among other methods used in garment construction. They are the most fundamental
types of pattern making in clothing and
textile industry.
Flat pattern, according to Igbo and Iloeje (2008), is
an engineering approach geared towards producing patterns, using a set of
measurements obtained from a figure while following a set of instructions.
These instructions are interpreted into drawings or shape drafted on paper and
placed on the fabric for garment construction. Flat pattern is cheap and easy
to manipulate (Igbo and Iloeje, 2003). In drafting, a block is created from
which varying styles of designs are manipulated to create the desired garment.
Anikiwe (2012);
Igbo and Iloeje (2003); Crawforg (1996) defined
draping to be an artistic
approach in which a person makes a pattern by fitting a large rectangle of
woven cloth around the body so that the folds in the fabric produces the dress
pattern according to the curves of the body. Crawforg (1996) stated that
draping is used in high level of garment designing. Crawforg (1996) further
elucidated that in this technique, the pattern makers drape the fabric directly
on a model or a mannequin and trace out the fabric pattern. Again he stated
that the patterns obtained from this technique are very accurate and have
better fit, but is very time consuming and costly as well, thus it cannot be
used in mass manufacturing. Anderson (2005) also discovered that draping is one
of the oldest methods used to create a pattern. In the traditional draping
process, a garment is produced by modeling, cutting and pinning fabric to a
mannequin or individual (Burns 1997). Style lines and construction details of
the drape are carefully marked and removed, the fabric pieces are then laid
flat over pattern paper and traced out. The pattern is finalized by adding
additional markings such as grain lines, notches, buttons holes, correct seam,
hem allowances and facing (Burns 1997). Macdonalds (1998) added that draping is
helpful when developing intricate garment styles or using unusual fabric. After
the development of the dress style produced by draping technique, the garment
is then fit-tested.
Fit is an important element in all clothing whether it
is in a dress being made by the home sewer, the professional dress maker, or
one being purchased in a ready- to- wear store.
A garment must fit well or it will not have the element of style or
smartness which every woman desires in her clothing. Furthermore, the dress
that fits well is comfortable and gives satisfaction to the wearer. Veblen
(2012) stated that fitting is complicated in part because it does not stand
alone, rather it must be tackled within the larger framework of all that is
required to make a garment. Veblen (2012) further cited the inter relationship
between fitting and pattern making. However, this requires knowing how to
manipulate the cloth which cannot be dealt out of context; it must be solved
within the framework of the garment as a whole (Igbo and Iloege 2003); (Veblen
2012). Achieving the fit of garments involves various stages of processes like
accurate body measurement and study of the individuals body silhouette which
ultimately results to a perfectly fitted garment. Adding to this, Apple (2012)
stated that fitting is achieved from a state of heart that heralds comfort and
self confidence. Apple (2012) therefore spotted ways to identify fitted
garments which involves eliminating unattractive wrinkles and gaping. Fitting
is more than following rules and calculating measurements, it involves
judgment, understanding and manipulation. A good fitted garment should appear
smooth, flat without puckered seam, seam allowance should not be more than half
an inch or 1.3cm. The dart of a fitted wear should point to the fullest part of
the body; collars should have smooth curves and sharp corners, which should
cover the neckline seam with the edges lying flat in order to make for a better
feeling of comfort and good appearance (Obeta, 2015). Fasteners such as
buttons, snaps, hook and eye and zippers, when properly placed on garments give
a better feeling of comfort. Button hole should be sewn with tight even
stitches which should be large enough to contain the button as well the hole
should be small enough to firmly prevent snipping out while the garment is
worn. Obeta (2015) and Ezema (1996) also observed the grain of fabric as an
important criterion to garment fit. A properly fitted garments starts with
fabric cut and sewn at the lengthwise yarn. Anikiweze (2012) observed that many
women like to possess a variety of clothes such as blouses and skirts. The
making of these garments requires high level technical skills. Blouses is a
loose fitting upper garment that was formerly worn by workmen, peasants,
artists, women and children. Gavenas (2008) observed that today, the word most
commonly refers to a girl or women’s wear. Most women make customized upper
garments or blousess which are worn with skirts or Ankara fabric draped over
the waist. Clothing being anything placed on the body in order to adorn it,
protect or to communicate an intent makes the wearer of these types of blouses have
a sense of confidence as stated by Johnson and Foster (1990).
Fit testing is an important criteria of study when
considering the fit of a garment. According to Ashdown and O Connell (2006),
fit testing involves fitting an already produced garment in a dress form or on
fit models that are structured with the body shapes and proportions of the
target market for which the garments are produced. Garments are then produced
and fitted to the body dimensions of the fit models after which the patterns
are graded to create range of sizes (Ashdown and Connelle, 2006). Fit testing
can also be used to check how well garments fit on individual after its
production. This process shows how various construction details reflect on the
garment and also ensures that the design details align appropriately.
Recently, young female adult prefer common style of blouse
referred to as the “Peplum Blouse”. This type of blouses requires different
sewing and cutting skills in other to give a proper fit on an individual.
Therefore to achieve this fit, different clothing construction techniques are
applied. These techniques involve the use of flat pattern and draping in order
to actualize a perfect fitted peplum blouses. It is therefore pertinent to
re-introduce the process of draping which is of immense importance to most
garment construction personnel. This
study intends to develop and test the fit of garments (Peplum blouses and straight
cut skirts) produced by flat pattern and draping techniques. The draping and
flat pattern technique can thus be combined to achieve a perfect fit on the
construction of the blouses and skirts. However, the construction and fit
testing of garments (Peplum blouses and straight cut skirts) with the use of
pattern draft and draping method will assist in proffering a most reliable and
competent method for garment producers in Ovia North-East LGA in Edo State.
1.2 STATEMENT OF RESEARCH PROBLEM
Issues of ill-fitted garment for young female adults
have long been a topic of explicit research. Problems of garment fit have been
discovered to have originated from the pattern technique used by garment
producers (Dumridhammaporn, Jatuphatwarodom, Punyot and Chonsakorn, 2012; Crawforg
2012; Boorday 2011). Clothing manufacturing being a process through which
garment is made, requires an indepth understanding and knowledge of the human anatomical
structure from which these patterns are developed (Geetha, 2005). According to
Ashdown (2004), achieving a well fitted garment can be a complex process. This
is so because the relationship between the human anatomical body and the
garment is assessed on how well the garment producers apply the pattern making
principles inorder to achieve a good fit. However, garment producers, do not
have such knowledge which helps to alleviate these problems of fit in the
garment construction industry.
Currently, there
seems to exist some lapses in the use of the flat pattern technique as noted by
Dumridhammaporn, Jatuphatwarodom, Punyot and Chonsakorn, (2012). Dumridhammaporn
et al., (2012) also observed that garment produced from the flat-pattern
technique do not align with the natural curves of the human body as compared to
the use of other techniques. However, as these researchers argue about the
lapses in the flat pattern technique, some protest that garments produced by
the draping technique seem to fit better when compared with the flat-pattern
technique. Consequently, this has resulted to a misunderstanding and
uncertainty in the world of knowledge. Therefore, this puzzle between the best
technique to adopt inorder to have a well fitted garment seem to remain
unsolved.
Unfortunately, most studies over the years have been
focused on the use of flat pattern technique, with little focus on how the draping technique applies (Ezema,
1996). Also, it has been further observed that garment producers in Ovia North
East of Edo State have little understanding as to how the draping technique is
applied. They produce garments more by the flat pattern technique which often
times results to rendering unsatisfied services to their clients. Crawforg (2012)
opined that there is need to use the draping technique in making well fitted
garments. In Nigeria, there is little or no research based evidence that
comparatively studies the visual impression of outfit between garments produced
from flat pattern and draping technique. This therefore calls for an
exploration in the use of draping technique as it pertains to the fit of
blouses and skirts in the clothing industry..
Although several studies (Obeta 2015; Lindqvist 2005; Ashdown
1995; Anikiwe 2012) have dealt on issues of fit in clothing, there seems not to
have a proven scientific test on flat pattern and draping technique as relates
to issues of fit for young female adults while the few existing works in this
area were conducted abroad. The main problem of this research is that issues
of garment fit have been discovered to
have originated from the pattern technique used and the flat pattern technique
which is the most frequently used is seen to produce ill-fitted garments
compared to the draped technique. Therefore, this research sought to comparativly
study some garments constructed and fit- tested from flat pattern and draping
technique for young female adult.
1.3 PURPOSE OF THE STUDY
The main purpose of this study is to construct and fit
test garments (blouses and skirts) produced from flat pattern and draping
techniques for small, medium and large sized female adult in Ovia North-East
LGA of Edo State. Specifically, the objectives of the study are to compare:
1) the
visual impression of outfits (blouses and skirts) made from flat pattern and
draping technique;
2) the
fit of blouses made from flat pattern and draping techniques on models;
3) the
fit of skirts made from flat pattern and
draping techniques on models; and,
4) the
construction details of garments (skirts and blouses) made from flat pattern
and draping techniques off the models.
1.4 RESEARCH QUESTIONS
The
following research questions guided the study:
1) Is
there a difference between the visual impression of outfits (blouses and
skirts) made from flat pattern and
draping technique on the body of models?
2) Is
there a difference between the fit of
blouses made from flat pattern and draping techniques on models?
3) Is
there a difference between the fit of
skirts made from flat pattern and draping techniques on models?
4) Are
construction details of garments (skirts and blouses) made from flat pattern
technique different from those made from draping technique when examined off
the models?
1.5 HYPOTHESIS OF THE STUDY
The following null hypotheses were tested in the
study:
Ho1:
There is no significant difference between the visual impression of outfits
(blouses
and skirts) made from flat
pattern and draping techniques.
Ho2: There is no significant difference
between the fit of blouses made from flat
pattern and draping techniques.
Ho3: There is no significant
difference between the fit of skirts made from flat
pattern and draping techniques.
Ho4: There is no significant
difference between the construction details of garments (skirts and blouses) made
from flat pattern and draping techniques off the models.
1.6 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY
This
study will be of benefit to the following: Garment producers, consumers of customized
garment, lecturers in Clothing and Textile Department, clothing and textile
curriculum experts, students in Home Economics department, pattern making
engineers, skill acquisition centers both governmental and non- governmental
owned, the government and Nigerians at large.
The
garment producers will be equipped with the basic understanding in fit
criteria, they will know when to identify and describe a well fitted garment,
and identify what pattern to adopt in making fitted blousess and skirts for
their clients. They will also get to know how patterns were evolved and how
they interact with the human anatomical contours of the body. Through
organizing workshop where other pattern and clothing experts will be involved,
these garment producers will get to see and examine the processes involved in
making fitted garments.
Consumers
of the customized garment will benefit by identifying the best pattern
technique to adapt for various garment styles. They will come to also
understand fit standards in a garment. The findings of this study will be made
available on the internet through articles, websites and blogs for easy access
to the general public.
For
the students and lecturers in clothing and textile, this study will avail them
explicit universally accepted principles of fit and pattern making which will be
useful to their carrier and studentship, the students will also come to value
their discipline on clothing and textile. Curriculum expert will find the
content of this research work useful in drafting out curriculum for schools and
colleges. Informative wall hanging nuggets on basic fit assessment will be
created and hung in the clothing and textile laboratories for students and
lecturers to access for easy assimilation. Copies of this research work will
also be made available at the college and departmental libraries.
Pattern
making engineers need to be armed with the basic knowledge in pattern making,
hence the need for this study which will help them to acquire the basic knowledge
they are required to have by uploading this research work on the internet, they
will gain access to it.
Apprentices
in skill acquisition centre will be made to learn how garments are constructed
using flat pattern and draping method. Also, they can become owners of clothing
construction centers from which they can make a living. To achieve this, workshop will be organized in
order to equip the apprentices with the necessary technique needed in blouses
and skirts construction.
The
finding achieved from this work will be made available by books, papers,
articles and catalogues. All these will be made available on the internet
through websites and blogs for easy asses to the global world. Seminars and
workshops will be conducted for interested candidate that desire knowledge in
clothing.
1.7 SCOPE OF THE STUDY
The
study will be delimited to the comparative study of garments (peplum blouses
and straight cut skirts) constructed and fit-tested from the use of flat
pattern and draping technique for small, medium, and large sized female adult
in Ovia North-East L.G.A, Edo State.
Login To Comment